Mautaabwerera, ndipo nthawi ino, akuluakulu akulowa nawo. Ponena za zokongoletsa za uta, timachokera ku magawo a 2 kuti tidziwitse, mbiri ya uta, ndi ojambula otchuka a madiresi a uta.
Mauta adachokera ku Europe pa "Nkhondo ya Palatine" ku Middle Ages. Asilikali ambiri ankagwiritsa ntchito masilafu a silika m’khosi mwawo kukonza makolala a malaya awo. Mtsogoleri wa mafashoni Louis XIV adawona kuti, ndiye kuti uta unapangidwa. Mtundu uwu wa uta wamtunduwu udayambitsidwa mwachangu kuchokera ku France kupita ku England, kenako kufalikira ku Europe, kukhala chizindikiro cha ulemu ndi kukongola.
M'zaka za m'ma 1700, "Mchitidwe wa Baroque" unali wotchuka kwambiri, amayi ndi abambo amayamba kukongoletsa zovala zawo ndi zingwe zopangidwa ndi manja. Panthawi imeneyi, mauta ankagwiritsidwa ntchito kukongoletsa zovala za silika ndi satin, yunifolomu yachifumu, mendulo zaulemu zankhondo, zodzikongoletsera zagolide, ndi zina zotero.
M'zaka za m'ma 1800, "kalembedwe ka Rococo" kunapita ku Ulaya, ndipo nthawiyi inalinso "m'badwo waulemerero" wokongoletsera uta. Kuchokera pa uta wa Louis XIV kupita ku zodzikongoletsera za Mfumukazi Marie, mauta nthawi zonse akhala amodzi mwamitundu yomwe amakonda kwambiri mabanja achifumu aku Europe.
M'zaka za zana la 20, mauta anayamba kuonekera mu ntchito zambiri za okonza. Mauta sikuti amangowonetsa malingaliro ndi chithumwa cha amayi, komanso chimodzi mwazinthu zokondedwa kwambiri za opanga mafashoni. Mitundu yosiyanasiyana imakhala ndi matanthauzidwe osiyanasiyana.
M'zaka za m'ma 1950, Jacques Fath, mmodzi mwa atsogoleri atatu a mafashoni ku France, chionetsero chake cha masika cha 1950 chinachititsa chidwi kwambiri. Jacques Fath's sikuti amangokhalira kugwada pamapangidwe ake, koma amaphatikizanso mawonekedwe ake mu mafashoni. Izi zinayikanso maziko a uta kuti ukhale chinthu chokhazikika chokonzekera mu mafashoni.
Gabrielle Chanel nayenso anali ndi kumverera kwapadera kwa mauta. M'mapangidwe ake, mauta amaimira kukongola ndi ulemu.
Mu 1927, ntchito yotchuka ya Elsa Schiaparelli "Dislocated Visual Bow Knit Sweater" idabadwa. Kapangidwe kameneka kanali katsopano kolimba mtima kamene kanasintha uta kuchokera ku mawonekedwe a mbali zitatu kukhala chokongoletsera chamitundu iwiri.
Chigawo cha uta chakhala chikuchitika m'mbiri yonse ya Christian Dior, kuchokera ku mafashoni apamwamba kupita ku mafuta onunkhira, kuphatikiza bwino kukongola ndi kusewera kwa uta.
Cristóbal Balenciaga amakonda kufotokoza chithunzi chachikazi ngati gulugufe wokhala ndi mapiko otambasula. Kupyolera muzinthu zosiyanasiyana ndi mizere, zitsanzozo zimabisika mu zazikuluzikuluzikuvala, ngati kuti akhoza kuwulukira m’mwamba nthawi ina iliyonse.
Mpaka pano, mauta, omwe amaimira chikondi, kukongola ndi kukongola, mauta akadali chimodzi mwa zinthu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito muzovala zamakono za akazi. Nthawi zonse amasintha maonekedwe awo pansi pa kufuna kwa okonza, ndipo amagwira ntchito yofunika kwambiri pakukongoletsa kwa zovala.
Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) ali ndi kumverera kwapadera kwa zinthu za uta. Kalembedwe kake ndi Kunyalanyaza malamulo ndi kuswa miyambo. Mu 2022 masika ndi chilimwe chionetserocho, iye anapereka uta mu mawonekedwe osindikizira ndi azithunzi-atatu, motere amaswa njira yachikhalidwe kukokomeza mawonekedwe a mauta, kusindikizidwa ndi 3d uta analenga wamphamvu zithunzi zotsatira. Njira zosindikizira kapena zojambula zitatu zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kukongoletsa madera akuluakulu a mauta, maluwa, masamba ndi machitidwe ena pa silhouette yosavuta. Kusindikiza mobwerezabwereza mawonekedwe a uta wa 3d, ndi makongoletsedwe atsitsi a "two-dimensional" amabweretsa mawonekedwe amphamvu.
Giambattista Valli anali wojambula wotchuka wochokera ku Ital, ndipo anamanga chizindikiro ndi dzina lake mu 2004. Mauta, tulle, ruffles, waistbands, ndi zokongoletsera zamaluwa za 3D ndizo zizindikiro za Giambattista Valli. Mapangidwe a Giambattista Valli's amagwiritsa ntchito uta wawukulu wakale, ndi mizere yosalala, yodzaza mwaluso. Kuphatikizika kwa gauze ndi maluwa amaluwa kumakhala kosanjikiza, kumapatsa anthu kumverera kwachibwibwi komanso kulota. Mapangidwe okhala ndi wakuda amapanga mlengalenga wokhazikika komanso wodabwitsa. Pinki yolimba imapangitsa chovalacho kukhala chosavuta komanso chokongola. Mapangidwe a kavalidwe ndi uta wokoma ndi kukokomeza kwapamwamba kwapambana mitima ya omvera chifukwa cha maonekedwe ake. Zitsanzo zambiri zimakhala ngati maluwa, ndi nsalu za lace, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zogwirizana komanso zogwirizana.
Alexis Mabille ndi chizindikiro chodziwika bwino chomwe chinakhazikitsidwa ndi wojambula Alexis Mabille mu 2005. Uta ndi chizindikiro chabwino kwambiri cha wopanga wamng'ono uyu. Ananena kuti "utaya" ndi chizindikiro cha lingaliro losalowerera ndale, lomwe silingagwirizane ndi mauta a amuna, komanso limasonyeza kukongola kwachikazi. Mu mndandanda wa Alexis Mabille wa 2022 autumn ndi nyengo yozizira, mauta akuwonekera m'malo osiyanasiyana pa zovala: pa mapewa a madiresi a mapewa ndi ma jekete a suti, m'mbali mwa ma jumpsuits a lace ndi m'chiuno.madiresi amadzulo. Wopangayo adagwiritsa ntchito nsalu yopyapyala ndi satin ndikupanga mawonekedwe a uta muzovala, ndipo kapangidwe ka uta kumawonjezera chisangalalo chachikondikuvala.
Mndandanda wa MING MA wa 2022 autumn ndi chisanu umatchedwa "Dream Back to New Romance", yomwe idauziridwa ndi "New Romantic Cultural Movement" yomwe idatulukira ku England koyambirira kwa 1980s. Mlengi amanena zauzimu ufulu tokha. Pamaziko a chikhalidwe cha ku Europe, kapangidwe kameneka kamaphatikiza kukongola kodabwitsa kwakum'mawa, kuphatikiza kalembedwe kokongola komanso kukongola kosalowerera ndale, ndikutsegula mutu watsopano ndi chilankhulo chamakono.
Nthawi yotumiza: Jan-19-2024
