Pakadali pano, ambirimitundu ya zovalaamafuna ziphaso zosiyanasiyana za nsalu ndi mafakitale opanga nsalu. Pepalali likufotokoza mwachidule ziphaso za nsalu za GRS, GOTS, OCS, BCI, RDS, Bluesign, Oeko-tex zomwe makampani akuluakulu amayang'ana kwambiri posachedwapa.
1. Chitsimikizo cha GRS
Muyezo wapadziko lonse wovomerezeka ndi GRS wa nsalu ndi zovala; GRS ndi muyezo wodzifunira, wapadziko lonse lapansi, komanso wathunthu wazinthu zomwe zimaganizira za kukakamiza ogulitsa unyolo wopereka zinthu kuti akumbukirenso katundu, kuwongolera unyolo wosunga, zosakaniza zobwezerezedwanso, udindo wa anthu ndi machitidwe azachilengedwe, komanso zoletsa mankhwala, zomwe zinayambitsidwa ndi TextileExchange ndikutsimikiziridwa ndi bungwe lachitatu lovomerezeka.
Cholinga cha satifiketi ya GRS ndikuwonetsetsa kuti zomwe zanenedwa pa chinthu choyenera ndi zolondola komanso kuti chinthucho chapangidwa bwino komanso popanda kuwononga chilengedwe komanso mankhwala. Satifiketi ya GRS idapangidwa kuti ikwaniritse zosakaniza zomwe zabwezedwa/zobwezerezedwanso zomwe zili muzinthu (zomalizidwa komanso zomalizidwa pang'ono) kuti zitsimikizidwe ndi kampani, komanso kutsimikizira ntchito zokhudzana ndi udindo wa anthu, machitidwe azachilengedwe ndi kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwala.
Kufunsira satifiketi ya GRS kuyenera kukwaniritsa zofunikira zisanu monga kutsata, kuteteza chilengedwe, udindo wa anthu, kulemba chizindikiro cha kubwezeretsedwa ndi mfundo zazikulu.
Kuwonjezera pa zofunikira pa zinthu zopangira, muyezo uwu ukuphatikizaponso miyezo yokonza zachilengedwe. Ukuphatikizapo zofunikira kwambiri pakukonza madzi otayira komanso kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwala (malinga ndi Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) komanso Oeko-Tex100). Zinthu zokhudzana ndi udindo pagulu zikuphatikizidwanso mu GRS, yomwe cholinga chake ndi kutsimikizira thanzi ndi chitetezo cha ogwira ntchito, kuthandizira ufulu wa ogwira ntchito komanso kutsatira miyezo yokhazikitsidwa ndi International Labour Organisation (ILO).
Pakadali pano, makampani ambiri akupanga zinthu zopangidwa ndi polyester ndi thonje zobwezerezedwanso, zomwe zimafuna kuti ogulitsa nsalu ndi ulusi apereke zikalata za GRS ndi zambiri zokhudza malonda awo kuti azitsatira ndi kutsimikizira mtundu wawo.
2. Chitsimikizo cha GOTS
GOTS yatsimikizira za organic yapadziko lonse lapansimiyezo ya nsalu; Muyezo wa Global Standard for Organic Textile Certification (GOTS) umatanthauzidwa makamaka ngati zofunikira kuti nsalu zikhale zachilengedwe, kuphatikizapo kukolola zinthu zopangira, kupanga zinthu zomwe zili ndi udindo pa chilengedwe komanso chikhalidwe cha anthu, komanso kulemba zilembo kuti zitsimikizire zambiri za ogula za zinthuzo.
Muyezo uwu umapereka ntchito zokonza, kupanga, kulongedza, kulemba zilembo, kulowetsa, kutumiza kunja ndi kufalitsa nsalu zachilengedwe. Zogulitsa zomaliza zitha kuphatikizapo, koma sizimangokhala pa: zinthu zopangidwa ndi ulusi, ulusi, nsalu, zovala ndi nsalu zapakhomo, muyezo uwu umayang'ana kwambiri zofunikira zokha.
Cholinga cha chiphaso: nsalu zopangidwa kuchokera ku ulusi wachilengedwe
Kuchuluka kwa ziphaso: Kasamalidwe ka zinthu za GOT, chitetezo cha chilengedwe, udindo wa anthu mbali zitatu
Zofunikira pa malonda: Muli 70% ya ulusi wachilengedwe, kusakaniza sikuloledwa, muli ulusi wopangidwa kapena wobwezeretsedwanso wa 10% (zinthu zamasewera zitha kukhala ndi ulusi wopangidwa kapena wobwezeretsedwanso wa 25%), palibe ulusi wosinthidwa majini.
Nsalu zachilengedwe ndi chimodzi mwa ziphaso zofunika kwambiri pa zofunikira pa zinthu zopangira za makampani akuluakulu, zomwe tiyenera kusiyanitsa kusiyana pakati pa GOTS ndi OCS, zomwe ndi zofunikira kwambiri pa zinthu zachilengedwe zomwe zimapangidwa ndi zinthu zachilengedwe.
3. Chitsimikizo cha OCS
Muyezo wa zinthu zachilengedwe wotsimikizika ndi OCS; Muyezo wa Zinthu Zachilengedwe (OCS) ungagwiritsidwe ntchito pazinthu zonse zopanda chakudya zomwe zili ndi zosakaniza zachilengedwe kuyambira 5 mpaka 100 peresenti. Muyezo uwu ungagwiritsidwe ntchito kutsimikizira zomwe zili muzinthu zachilengedwe zomwe zili muzinthu zomaliza. Ungagwiritsidwe ntchito kutsata zinthu zopangira kuyambira koyambira mpaka chinthu chomaliza ndipo njirayi imatsimikiziridwa ndi bungwe lodalirika lachitatu. Pakuwunika kodziyimira palokha za zinthu zachilengedwe zomwe zili muzinthu zachilengedwe, miyezoyo idzakhala yowonekera bwino komanso yogwirizana. Muyezo uwu ungagwiritsidwe ntchito ngati chida chamalonda pakati pa makampani kuti athandize makampani kuwonetsetsa kuti zinthu zomwe amagula kapena kulipira zikukwaniritsa zofunikira zawo.
Cholinga cha satifiketi: zinthu zosakhala chakudya zopangidwa kuchokera ku zinthu zachilengedwe zovomerezeka.
Chitsimikizo cha satifiketi: Kasamalidwe ka kupanga zinthu za OCS.
Zofunikira pa malonda: Zili ndi zinthu zopangira zoposa 5% zomwe zikugwirizana ndi miyezo yovomerezeka yachilengedwe.
Zofunikira za OCS pa zosakaniza zachilengedwe ndizochepa kwambiri kuposa GOTS, kotero kasitomala wamba wa mtundu adzafuna kuti wogulitsa apereke satifiketi ya GOTS m'malo mwa satifiketi ya OCS.
4. Satifiketi ya BCI
Bungwe Lovomerezeka la BCI ku Swiss Good Cotton Development Association; Bungwe la Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), lomwe linalembetsedwa mu 2009 ndipo likulu lake lili ku Geneva, Switzerland, ndi bungwe lopanda phindu la mamembala apadziko lonse lapansi lomwe lili ndi maofesi anayi oyimira ku China, India, Pakistan ndi London. Pakadali pano, lili ndi mabungwe mamembala oposa 1,000 padziko lonse lapansi, makamaka kuphatikiza mafakitale obzala thonje, mabizinesi opanga nsalu za thonje ndi mitundu yogulitsa.
BCI imagwira ntchito ndi anthu osiyanasiyana kuti ilimbikitse mapulojekiti olima a BetterCotton padziko lonse lapansi komanso kuti ithandize kuyenda kwa BetterCotton mu unyolo wonse wopereka zinthu, kutengera mfundo zopangira thonje zomwe BCI idakhazikitsa. Cholinga chachikulu cha BCI ndikusintha kupanga thonje padziko lonse lapansi kudzera mu chitukuko cha Good Cotton Project, ndikupanga thonje labwino kukhala chinthu chofunikira kwambiri. Pofika chaka cha 2020, kupanga thonje labwino kudzafika pa 30% ya kupanga thonje lonse lapansi.
BCI mfundo zisanu ndi chimodzi zopangira:
1. Chepetsani zotsatirapo zoipa pa njira zotetezera mbewu.
2. Kugwiritsa ntchito bwino madzi ndi kusunga madzi.
3. Yang'anani kwambiri pa thanzi la nthaka.
4. Tetezani malo okhala zachilengedwe.
5. Kusamalira ndi kuteteza ubwino wa ulusi.
6. Kulimbikitsa ntchito zabwino.
Pakadali pano, makampani ambiri amafuna kuti thonje la ogulitsa awo lichokere ku BCI, ndipo ali ndi nsanja yawo yotsatirira ya BCI kuti atsimikizire kuti ogulitsa akhoza kugula BCI yeniyeni, pomwe mtengo wa BCI ndi wofanana ndi wa thonje wamba, koma ogulitsa adzafunika ndalama zofanana pofunsira ndikugwiritsa ntchito nsanja ya BCI ndi umembala. Kawirikawiri, kugwiritsa ntchito BCCU kumatsatiridwa kudzera pa nsanja ya BCI (1BCCU = 1kg thonje).
5. Satifiketi ya RDS
Humane and Responsible down standard ya RDS; RDS ResponsibleDownStandard (Responsibledown Standard). Humane and Responsible Down Standard ndi pulogalamu ya satifiketi yopangidwa ndi TheNorthFace ya VF Corporation mogwirizana ndi Textile Exchange ndi Dutch ControlUnion Certifications, bungwe lachitatu la satifiketi. Ntchitoyi idayambitsidwa mwalamulo mu Januwale 2014 ndipo satifiketi yoyamba idaperekedwa mu Juni chaka chomwecho. Pakukonza pulogalamu ya satifiketi, wopereka satifiketi adagwira ntchito ndi ogulitsa otsogola AlliedFeather& Down ndi Downlite kuti afufuze ndikutsimikizira kuti akutsatira malamulo pagawo lililonse la unyolo wopereka katundu.
Nthenga za atsekwe, abakha ndi mbalame zina mumakampani ogulitsa chakudya ndi chimodzi mwa zipangizo zabwino kwambiri komanso zogwirira ntchito bwino kwambiri. Humane Down Standard idapangidwa kuti iwone ndikutsata komwe kumachokera chinthu chilichonse chopangidwa kuchokera ku zinthu zotsika, ndikupanga unyolo wosunga kuyambira gosling mpaka chinthu chomaliza. Chitsimikizo cha RDS chimaphatikizapo chitsimikizo cha ogulitsa zinthu zopangira pansi ndi nthenga, komanso chimaphatikizapo chitsimikizo cha mafakitale opanga ma down jacket.
6. Satifiketi ya Oeko-TEX
OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 idapangidwa ndi International Environmental Textile Association (OEKO-TEX®Association) mu 1992 kuti ayesere mawonekedwe a nsalu ndi zovala malinga ndi momwe zimakhudzira thanzi la anthu. OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 imatchula mitundu ya zinthu zoopsa zomwe zimadziwika kuti zimapezeka mu nsalu ndi zovala. Zinthu zoyesera zikuphatikizapo pH, formaldehyde, zitsulo zolemera, mankhwala ophera tizilombo/herbicides, chlorinated phenol, phthalates, organotin, azo dyes, carcinogenic/allergenic dyes, OPP, PFOS, PFOA, chlorobenzene ndi chlorotoluene, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, color fastness, volatile matter, fungo, ndi zina zotero, ndipo zinthuzi zimagawidwa m'magulu anayi malinga ndi momwe zimagwiritsidwira ntchito: Kalasi I ya makanda, Kalasi II ya kukhudzana mwachindunji ndi khungu, Kalasi III ya kukhudzana mwachindunji ndi khungu ndi Kalasi IV ya kugwiritsidwa ntchito kokongoletsa.
Pakadali pano, Oeko-tex, monga imodzi mwa ziphaso zofunika kwambiri zokhudzana ndi chilengedwe cha mafakitale a nsalu, nthawi zambiri imafuna mgwirizano ndi eni ake a makampani, zomwe ndizofunikira kwambiri pamafakitale.
Kumaliza
Siyinghongfakitale yogulitsa zovalandi mtsogoleri mumakampani opanga mafashoni ndipo wapeza ziphaso ndi miyezo yambiri yothandiza bizinesi yanu kupambana.
Ngati mukufuna kuti zovala zanu zikhale zosamalira chilengedwe komanso zokongola, musayang'ane kwina koma siyanghongfakitale ya zovala. Timaona kuti kukhazikika ndi udindo wa anthu ndizofunikira kwambiri popanga zovala kuti mutha kupanga zovala zamakono molimba mtima popanda kuwononga chilengedwe.Lumikizanani nafelero kuti mudziwe zambiri za momwe tingakuthandizireni kukwaniritsa zolinga zanu.
Nthawi yotumizira: Marichi-28-2024
