Zovala Zovala, kuwonjezera pa nsalu kuti mukhale ndi chidziwitso chokwanira, Zowonjezera nazonso zimafuna kumvetsetsa bwino. Ndiye kodi zowonjezera zovala ndi chiyani? Mumazigawa bwanji? Ndipotu, kuwonjezera pa nsalu ya zovala, zinthu zina zovalira zimatha kutchedwa zowonjezera zovala. Zowonjezera zovala zitha kugawidwa m'magulu a zinthu zomangira, zinthu zomangira, zodzaza, zida za kalasi ya lamba wa waya, ndi zina zotero. Siyinghong yotsatirayi ndi yeniyeni kuti muyambe kugawa zinthu zomangira zovala.
01 Muzinthu
Zipangizozi zimagwiritsidwa ntchito mu zovala zogwirira ntchito, makamaka polyester taffeta, silika wa nayiloni, nsalu ya fleelette, mitundu yonse ya nsalu ya thonje ndi nsalu ya thonje ya polyester. Zipangizo za silika wamkati zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi zambiri zimaphatikizapo 170T, 190T, 210T, 230T polyester taffeta, silika wa nayiloni ndi silika wa thonje wa anthu; flannelette ili ndi ubweya wa mbali imodzi, ubweya wa mbali ziwiri, ndi zina zotero, zomwe nthawi zambiri zimayesedwa ndi kulemera kwa gramu, 120g / m2~260g / m2; nsalu yodziwika bwino ya m'thumba ndi T / C 6 / 5 / 35454545 / 96 72,4545 / 13372, ndi zina zotero.
Zizindikiro zazikulu zoyesera za nsalu ndi kuchepa kwa kukhuthala ndi kulimba kwa utoto. Pa zovala zomwe zili ndi zinthu zodzaza velvet, nsaluyo iyenera kukhala yopyapyala kapena yokutidwa kuti isatseguke. Pakadali pano, kuchuluka kwake ndi ulusi wa mankhwala monga chinthu chachikulu cha silika wa nsaluyo.
02 Mzere
Zipangizo zomangira mkati mwake zimaphatikizapo nsalu yomangira mkati ndi nsalu yomangira mkati yamitundu iwiri. Liner imagwiritsidwa ntchito makamaka pa kolala ya zovala, cuff, thumba la mkamwa, chiuno cha siketi, m'mphepete ndi pachifuwa cha suti ndi zina, nthawi zambiri imakhala ndi zokutira zotentha zosungunuka, zomwe nthawi zambiri zimatchedwa adhesive lining. Malinga ndi nsalu yapansi, nsalu yomangira mkati imagawidwa m'zipinda zopota ndi nsalu yosaluka. Nsalu yopota yokhala ndi nsalu yopota ndi nsalu yolukidwa kapena yolukidwa, nsalu yosaluka mkati imakanizidwa ndi ulusi wa mankhwala. Ubwino wa nsalu yomangira mkati umagwirizana mwachindunji ndi mtundu wa zovala ndi zovala.
Chifukwa chake, posankha ndi kugula zomatira, sikuti zimangofunika mawonekedwe okha, komanso fufuzani ngati magwiridwe antchito a nsalu yomatira akugwirizana ndi zofunikira za mtundu wa chovalacho. Mwachitsanzo, kutentha kwa liner kuyenera kukhala kofanana momwe kungathekere; iyenera kukhala ndi kusoka bwino ndi kudula; imagwirizana bwino ndi nsaluyo kutentha kochepa; pewani guluu wakutsogolo wa nsaluyo mutakanikiza kutentha kwambiri; imamatira mwamphamvu komanso kwanthawi yayitali, yoletsa kukalamba ndi kutsuka. Lineryo ili ndi zomatira zapamapewa apamwamba, zomatira za pachifuwa, ndi zomatira za matako apansi, zokhuthala komanso zofewa, nthawi zambiri osati guluu.
03 Kudzaza
Chodzaza zovala ndi chinthu chomwe chimasunga kutentha pakati pa nsalu ndi nsalu. Malinga ndi mawonekedwe a chodzaza, chingagawidwe m'magulu awiri a catkins ndi nsalu.
① Kachikopa: palibe mawonekedwe okhazikika, nsalu yodzaza yotayirira, zovala ziyenera kuwonjezeredwa ku nsaluyo (zina zimawonjezeranso nsalu yophimba ndulu), komanso kudzera mu makina kapena kuluka ndi manja. Mitundu yayikulu ndi thonje, thonje la silika, ubweya wa ngamila ndi pansi, zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito potenthetsera ndi kutchinjiriza kutentha.
② Zipangizo: ndi ulusi wopangidwa kapena zinthu zina zopangidwa zomwe zimapangidwa kukhala chodzaza chathyathyathya, mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya ulusi wa chloride, polyester, thonje lokhazikika la acrylic, thonje lopanda kanthu ndi pulasitiki yosalala, ndi zina zotero. Ubwino wake ndi makulidwe ofanana, kukonzedwa kosavuta, mawonekedwe okhwima, bowa komanso wopanda njenjete, zosavuta kutsuka.
04 Mtundu wa lamba wa mzere
Makamaka amatanthauza mzere wosokera ndi zipangizo zina zamtundu wa mzere ndi zipangizo zosiyanasiyana za lamba wa chingwe. Ulusi wosokera umagwira ntchito yosokera zidutswa za zovala ndi kulumikiza ziwalo zosiyanasiyana mu zovala, ndipo ukhozanso kugwira ntchito yokongoletsa, kaya mzere wowala kapena mzere wakuda, ndi gawo la kalembedwe ka zovala. Ulusi wosokera womwe umagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri ndi ulusi wa polyester wa 60s / 3 ndi 40s / 2, ndipo ulusi wosokera womwe umagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri ndi ulusi wa rayon ndi silika.
05 Pafupi ndi zipangizo
Zipangizo za Ttch zimagwira ntchito makamaka ngati zolumikizira, kuphatikiza ndi kukongoletsa zovala, zomwe zimaphatikizapo batani, zipu, mbedza, mphete ndi nayiloni ndi zina zotero.
06 Zipangizo zokongoletsa
Pali mitundu yambiri ya lace, komanso ndi gawo lofunika kwambiri pa zinthu zokongoletsera, ndi chinthu chofunikira kwambiri chokongoletsera zovala za akazi ndi ana, lace imaphatikizapo lace yolukidwa ndi lace yopangidwa ndi manja. Lace yolukidwa ndi makina imagawidwa m'magulu atatu, lace yolukidwa, lace yolukidwa ndi lace yolukidwa; lace yopangidwa ndi manja imaphatikizapo lace ya taenia yopangidwa ndi nsalu, lace ya ulusi ndi lace yolukidwa.
Tikamaliza kulankhula za zowonjezera zovala, tiyeni tikambirane za nsalu zotentha za madiresi. Ingopitani molunjika ku malangizo asanu.
1. Tencel ndi polyester, zinthu zopangidwa ndi nayiloni monofilament. Ine ndimapanga makamaka madiresi a masika ndi chilimwe. Chifukwa monofilaments ndi zoonda kwambiri, chiwerengero chonse cha zosakaniza ndi chochepa kwambiri, koma zimatha kuwonjezera kapangidwe kake, ndipo kuchuluka kwa Tencel cel kumakhala pafupifupi 80%, zomwe sizimangotsimikizira chitonthozo, komanso kalembedwe ka nsalu kokongola kwambiri.
2. Nsalu ya Tencel. Sikuti kusakaniza kapena kuluka kwa tencel ndi linen, ramie, tencel hemp kwachuluka tsopano, monga rayon ndi tencel hemp interweaving, nylon mono-filament ndi tencel hemp interweaving, ndi zina zotero, ndi zina mwa nsalu zapamwamba kwambiri.
3. Nsalu yoyera ya tencel. Kuwonjezera pa kupota kofala komanso kosalala, nsalu zoyera za tensilk zimakhala ndi kapangidwe kake ka jacquard, kusintha kwa mawonekedwe, komanso kapangidwe kake kapadera, monga ulusi wa nsungwi, komwe ndi kosiyana kwambiri. Kupatula apo, Tensi yoyera ndi yabwino, yopumira komanso yosamalira chilengedwe, ubwino wake ndi wofunikira kwambiri, ndipo mawonekedwe ake, mawonekedwe ake, mawonekedwe ake, ndi magiredi ake ndi osafunikira kunena.
4. Nsalu ya thonje ya Tencel. Kale, nsalu za thonje ya tencel zinali zosavuta, ndipo tsopano njira yotsukira madzi ambiri yayamba kutchuka, yomwe ndi yabwino kwambiri komanso yapadera kuposa thonje.
5. Nsalu yotambasula ya Tencel. Kugwiritsa ntchito kusinthasintha kuti kuwonjezere magwiridwe antchito oyenera, kuti kuwonjezere bolodi lalifupi lopanda kanthu la nsalu yachikhalidwe ya tencel, makamaka pazinthu zolemera zapakatikati komanso zolemera kwambiri, popanga madiresi a masika ndi chilimwe ndi apamwamba kwambiri.
Nthawi yotumizira: Ogasiti-26-2023
