Karl Lagerfeld nthawi ina anati, "Zinthu zambiri zomwe ndimalenga zimawoneka pamene ndikugona. Malingaliro abwino kwambiri ndi malingaliro achindunji, ngakhale opanda ubongo, monga kung'anima kwa mphezi! zoyambitsa mapulojekiti atsopano, koma sindikutero." (Source: PClady) Karl Lagerfeld Anagwira ntchito limodzi ku Fendi50, zojambulidwa zoposa 50,000, ndipo zinali zosatheka kujambula" zolembedwa pamanja" zabwino ndi zokongola.Okonzaamangofunika kuwonetsa kapangidwe kake, ndipo safunikira kukhala ndi zolemba pamanja zabwino kwambiri.
Malinga ndi mawu a Lafayette, titha kuona kuti zolembedwa pamanja za ambuye ndizosavuta kwambiri. Mipukutu yawo yolembedwa pamanja kaŵirikaŵiri imalemba kudzoza kwa kamphindi. Ambuye ambiri amamvetsera kwambiri kuwonetsera kwa zovala pa thupi, osati kuwonetsera zojambulazo.
Galeries Lafayette Karl Lagerfeld wa zolemba pamanja
Chifukwa kudzoza kumafunika kulembedwa mwachangu;
Chifukwa amangofunika kupereka lingaliro lonse la kalembedwe, koma osati mawonekedwe opangira mbale;
Chifukwa amapangitsanso kukhala angwiro, ngakhale kuti ndi osavuta koma amatha kuwonetsa bwino zomwe mukufuna ~ ichi ndiye chofunikira kwambiri!
Chachiwiri, monga ambuye akamangidwe ka mafashoni~ Monga oyang'anira mapangidwe, amangofunika kumvetsetsa momwe nsalu imayendera (mbiri ya nsalu yamutu wamutu), ndikupereka zina kwa wopanga ndi wopanga kuti atsatire.
Ntchito yaikulu ya ambuye makamaka kuika patsogolo lingaliro ndi kalembedwe ka zovala za nyengo ino, choncho amangofunika lingaliro lachifaniziro chonse ndi zipangizo zazikulu. Kumasulira kotereku kojambula ndi manja, kothandiza kwambiri komanso kogwira ntchito, kumangofunika kusonyeza zotsatira za mapangidwe, sikuyenera kukhala ndi mipukutu yokongola kwambiri.
Mwachitsanzo, zolembedwa pamanja za Yohji Yamamoto zimayang'ana kwambiri mawonekedwe ndi tanthauzo la Zen yaku Japan:
Chovala chakuda chokhala ndi nsapato zofiira, chokhala ndi malingaliro amphamvu a ku Japan Zen a malingaliro a mafashoni, kudzera mwa akazi amavala Yohji Yamamoto kavalidwe kojambula, kusonyeza Zen ndi kuzindikira kwapadera.
Pamene makampani opanga mafashoni akuwonetsabe kupindika kwachikazi ndi zomangira zakumadzulo, Yohji Yamamoto ali ndi kulimba mtima kuswa mwambowo, kutenga kimono monga lingaliro, ndi zotsatira za pendant, kupindika ndi kupindika, kuphimba phiri lachikazi pansi pa zovala zopanda ndale, kupanga funde latsopano la Japan mu makampani opanga mafashoni.
Yohji Yamamoto amadziwika kuti "mfumu yosoka" chifukwa amawona kuti "zojambula zonse zimachokera ku zojambulajambula". Kaŵirikaŵiri sapenda zovalazo poyamba ndiyeno kuzipanga molingana ndi zolembedwa pamanja, chitsanzo cha kamangidwe ka zovala zomwe kulibe iye.
Ichinso ndi chifukwa chimodzi chomwe mipukutu yake imakhala yosasamala, makamaka kufotokoza malingaliro, mawonekedwe ndi tanthauzo, popanda kulabadira tsatanetsatane wa kalembedwe komwe akufuna.
Chachitatu, ambuye ali ndi luso lakuya, ndi zikwapu pang'ono, amatha kukwaniritsa mawonekedwe omveka bwino a nsalu zambiri amafuna mapangidwe.
M'malo mwake, kuti mukwaniritse udindo wa wotsogolera wopanga, palibe chifukwa chojambulira wowongolera mwatsatanetsatane amangofunika kuyika lingaliro, kupereka chojambula, ndiyeno mothandizidwa ndi wopanga kapena wopanga ma board kuti ajambule zambiri.kumasulira mwatsatanetsatane, kotero kuyesera kumapangitsa kukhala angwiro, amatha kujambula mwachisawawa.
Chojambula chomaliza chidzafotokozedwa mwatsatanetsatane malo a stitches ndi njira zina. Fakitale ikapanga chojambulacho, imatha kuona chithunzicho kuti imvetsetse momwe chiyenera kusokeretsedwa. Nthawi zambiri zojambula zamtundu uwu sizimatuluka. Osati fanizo loyenerera, monga momwe dokotala akulembera mankhwala, mwadala pambuyo pa zikwapu zingapo, mumawoneka wosokonezeka, anthu akugwira mankhwala koma momveka bwino.
Tengani Kawkubo mwachitsanzo, uyunso ndi wolemba wamba kwambiri.
Monga tonse tikudziwira, chiyambireni dzina lakuti Comme des Garcons (monga mnyamata) mu 1973, Iye wakana mouma khosi kufotokoza ntchito yake —— " (ntchito yanga) 'ndi yopanda tanthauzo'."
Mofananamo, iye anakana kulankhula za moyo wake waumwini. Iye ananena mosapita m’mbali kuti: “Chidwi pa chilichonse cha (moyo wachinsinsi) n’chodabwitsa kwambiri. Mosiyana ndi zimenezi, ndi bwino kudziwa ntchito ya munthu. Njira yabwino yodziwira woimba ndiyo kumvetsera nyimbo zake. njira yabwino yondidziwira ndiyo kuona zovala zanga.”
Kudzoza kwa opanga kumachokera m'malingaliro, ndipo kusatsimikizika kwamalingaliro kumapangitsa okonza kuti alembe malingaliro awo mwadzidzidzi ndi kudzoza munthawi yake.
Sikovuta kuwona kuchokera pamawu olembedwa pamanja opangidwa ndi Kawkubo kuti ndi katswiri yemwe amakonda kutengera mokokomeza, mtundu wamphamvu komanso silhouette yamitundu itatu, ndipo ali ndi mawonekedwe ake. Ngakhale zolemba pamanja za ambuye opanga mapangidwewa zimawoneka ngati zachilendo kwambiri, zimatha kuwonetsa zochitika zambiri zodziwika bwino ndi tsatanetsatane, silhouette, mtundu, nsalu, kalembedwe ndi zina zimawonetsedwa bwino muzojambulazi.
Pazojambula za kujambula mafashoni, muyenera kukhala osakalamba kwambiri kuti muphunzire ndikuchita. Kuphunzira kulibe malire, ndipo nthawi zonse pamakhala malo ena osadziwika omwe amadikirira kuti anthu afufuze. M’kati mwa phunziro lanu, kaŵirikaŵiri mungamve kuti mwapita patsogolo, ndipo mizere yanu pang’onopang’ono ikukhala yosalala ndi yamphamvu.
Zaka za m'ma 1970 zinali gawo labwino kwambiri pantchito yake yojambula, monga zowombera moto, siketi ya mondelly plaid, kutsatira kalembedwe kachifumu ka Tsarist ku Russia, mpaka kumadera akum'mawa.
Kukonda kwake luso la Kum'maŵa kunapangitsa kuti ntchito zake zikhale zoyamba zowonetsera mthunzi wa Morocco, China, Japan ndi Spain, ndipo mosalekeza adapanga zojambulajambula ndi mafuta onunkhira odzaza ndi zinsinsi za Kummawa.
Zolemba pamanja za Saint Laurent zidapangidwanso kukhala filimu, "Les dessins d'Yves Saint Laurent". Ndipo mbiri ya anthu, Yves Saint Laurent biography Yves Saint Laurent. Filimuyi ilinso ndi mipukutu yake yamtengo wapatali. Kuchuluka kwa luso ndi chifukwa chofunikira chosiya dzina lake ndi ntchito m'mbiri ya zovala zamakono. Kuchokera pamalingaliro a filimu, wojambula wamkulu, yemwe angakhale wojambula m'mbiri ya filimuyi, ndi ulemu kwa mbadwo wanzeru kwambiri.
Mwachidule, monga katswiri wokonza zovala, wakhala katswiri, wowongolera, komanso ali ndi timu yothandiza kwambiri. Mipukutu yachilengedwe imakhala yogwira ntchito komanso kalembedwe kayekha, ndipo safuna zithunzi zokongola. Koma ife, ingotengani nthawi yathu, choyamba... Yambani ndi ntchito yabwino ~
Nthawi yotumiza: Mar-28-2024
