Karl Lagerfeld nthawi ina anati, "Zinthu zambiri zomwe ndimapanga zimaoneka ndili mtulo. Malingaliro abwino kwambiri ndi malingaliro olunjika kwambiri, ngakhale opanda ubongo, ngati kuwala kwa mphezi! Anthu ena amaopa mipata, ndipo ena amaopa kuyambitsa mapulojekiti atsopano, koma ine sindikuopa." (Chitsime: PClady) Karl Lagerfeld Anagwira ntchito limodzi mu Fendi50, zojambula zoposa 50,000, ndipo zinali zovuta kujambula zolemba "zokongola komanso zokongola".Opanga mapulanikungofunika kuwonetsa momwe kapangidwe kake kamagwirira ntchito, ndipo safunika kukhala ndi cholembedwa cholembedwa bwino kwambiri.
Malinga ndi mawu a Lafayette, tikutha kuona kuti zolemba za ambuye ndi zosafunikira kwenikweni. Zolemba zawo nthawi zambiri zimalemba kudzoza kwa kanthawi. Ambuye ambiri amasamala kwambiri kuwonetsa zovala pathupi, m'malo mowonetsa zojambulazo.
Galeries Lafayette Karl Lagerfeld wa mpukutuwu
Chifukwa kudzoza kuyenera kulembedwa mwachangu;
Chifukwa amangofunika kupereka lingaliro lonse la kalembedwe, koma osati mawonekedwe wamba opangira mbale;
Chifukwa zimapangitsanso kukhala wangwiro, ngakhale kuti ndi wamba koma amatha kuwonetsa bwino momwe mukufunira ~ ichi ndiye chofunikira kwambiri!
Chachiwiri, monga ambuye akapangidwe ka mafashoni~ Monga otsogolera mapangidwe, amangofunika kumvetsetsa njira yonse (mtundu wa nsalu), ndikupereka tsatanetsatane wina kwa wopanga ndi wopanga kuti atsatire.
Ntchito yaikulu ya akatswiri makamaka ndikupereka lingaliro ndi kalembedwe ka zovala za nyengo ino, kotero amangofunika lingaliro la chithunzi chonse ndi zipangizo zazikulu. Mtundu uwu wa zojambula zojambulidwa ndi manja, zothandiza komanso zogwira ntchito, zimangofunika kuwonetsa kapangidwe kake, sizifunikira kukhala ndi cholembedwa chokongola kwambiri.
Mwachitsanzo, zolembedwa za Yohji Yamamoto zimayang'ana kwambiri mawonekedwe ndi tanthauzo la Zen yaku Japan:
Chovala chakuda chokhala ndi nsapato zofiira, chokhala ndi malingaliro amphamvu a mafashoni a ku Japan a Zen, kudzera mwa akazi amavala diresi la Yohji Yamamoto lojambulidwa, losonyeza mawonekedwe a Zen ndi chidziwitso chapadera.
Pamene makampani opanga mafashoni akuwonetsabe mawonekedwe a akazi ndi mathalauza achikale akumadzulo, Yohji Yamamoto ali ndi kulimba mtima kopambana mwambowu, kutenga kimono ngati lingaliro, ndi zotsatira za pendant, kuphimba mawonekedwe a akazi pansi pa zovala zosalowerera, ndikupanga mafunde atsopano a Japan mumakampani opanga mafashoni.
Yohji Yamamoto amadziwika kuti ndi "mfumu ya kusoka" chifukwa amaona kuti "mapangidwe onse amachokera ku kusoka". Samakonda kupaka zovala kaye kenako nkuzipanga motsatira zolemba, zomwe sizili ndi kapangidwe ka zovala.
Ichi ndi chifukwa chimodzi chomwe mabukhu ake alili osavuta, makamaka akufotokoza momwe akumvera, mawonekedwe ndi tanthauzo lake, popanda kulabadira tsatanetsatane wa kalembedwe komwe akufuna.
Chachitatu, akatswiri ali ndi luso lakuya, ndi kukwapula pang'ono, amatha kukwaniritsa mawonekedwe owoneka bwino komanso omveka bwino a nsalu yonse yomwe akufuna.
Ndipotu, kuti munthu akwaniritse udindo wa woyang'anira mapangidwe, palibe chifukwa chojambula wotsogolera mapangidwe mwatsatanetsatane, amangofunika kupereka lingaliro la lingaliro, kupanga chithunzi, kenako ndi thandizo la wopanga kapena injiniya wa bolodi kuti ajambule zambiri.zojambula mwatsatanetsatane, kotero kuchita masewera olimbitsa thupi kumabweretsa zabwino kwambiri, amatha kujambula mosavuta.
Chithunzi chomaliza cha kalembedwe chidzafotokozedwa mwatsatanetsatane za malo osokera ndi njira zina. Fakitale ikapanga chithunzicho, imatha kuwona chithunzicho kuti imvetse momwe chiyenera kusokedwera. Kawirikawiri mtundu uwu wa chithunzi cha pepala sutuluka. Si fanizo loyenera kwathunthu, monga momwe dokotala amalembera mankhwala, akachita dala pambuyo pobayidwa pang'ono, mumawoneka osokonezeka, anthu amalandira mankhwalawo koma momveka bwino.
Mwachitsanzo, iyi ndi nkhani yolembedwa mwachisawawa kwambiri.
Monga tonse tikudziwira, kuyambira pomwe kampani ya Comme des Garcons (ngati mnyamata) idayamba kugwira ntchito mu 1973, iye wakana molimba mtima kufotokoza ntchito yake —— " (ntchito yanga) ndi 'yopanda tanthauzo'."
Mofananamo, iye anakana kulankhula za moyo wake. Iye ananena mosapita m'mbali kuti: "Chidwi pa chilichonse cha moyo wachinsinsi n'chodabwitsa. Mosiyana ndi zimenezi, ndi bwino kudziwa ntchito ya munthu. Njira yabwino yodziwira woimba ndikumvetsera nyimbo zake. Njira yabwino yodziwira ine ndikuona zovala zanga."
Kudzoza kwa opanga mapulani kumachokera ku malingaliro, ndipo kusatsimikizika kwa malingaliro kumapangitsa opanga mapulani kuti alembe malingaliro awo mwadzidzidzi ndi kudzoza kwawo pakapita nthawi.
N'zosavuta kuona kuchokera ku cholembedwa cha zovala chomwe chinapangidwa ndi Kawkubo kuti ndi katswiri amene amakonda kupanga zinthu mopitirira muyeso, mtundu wolimba komanso mawonekedwe amitundu itatu, ndipo ali ndi kalembedwe kake. Ngakhale kuti zolemba za akatswiri opanga mapangidwe awa zikuwoneka zosavuta, zimatha kuwonetsa mafashoni ambiri otchuka komanso tsatanetsatane, mawonekedwe, mtundu, nsalu, kalembedwe ndi zina zikuwonetsedwa bwino m'zojambula izi.
Mu gawo la zaluso lojambula mafashoni, simuyenera kukhala okalamba kwambiri kuti muphunzire ndikuchita. Palibe malire pa kuphunzira, ndipo nthawi zonse pamakhala madera ena osadziwika omwe akuyembekezera kuti anthu awafufuze. Mu nthawi yophunzira kwanu, nthawi zambiri mumamva kuti mwapita patsogolo, ndipo pang'onopang'ono mizere yanu ikukhala yosalala komanso yowala.
Zaka za m'ma 1970 zinali gawo lowala kwambiri pantchito yake ya zaluso, monga zozimitsa moto, siketi yokongola, kutsatira kalembedwe kachifumu ka ku Russia, mpaka kumadera akum'mawa.
Chizolowezi chake cha zaluso zaku Asia chinapangitsa ntchito zake kukhala ntchito yoyamba kuwonetsa mthunzi wa Morocco, China, Japan ndi Spain, ndipo nthawi zonse adapanga zaluso ndi mafuta onunkhira odzaza ndi zinsinsi zaku Asia.
Mabuku a Saint Laurent adapangidwanso kukhala filimu, "Les dessins d'Yves Saint Laurent". Ndipo mbiri ya anthu, mbiri ya Yves Saint Laurent ya Yves Saint Laurent. Filimuyi ikuwonetsanso zolemba zake zamtengo wapatali. Kukula kwa zaluso ndi chifukwa chofunikira chosiya dzina lake ndi ntchito zake m'mbiri ya zovala zamakono. Kuchokera pamalingaliro a kanema, katswiri wojambula, yemwe angakhale wokonzanso m'mbiri ya kanema, ndi ulemu kwa mbadwo wanzeru kwambiri.
Mwachidule, monga katswiri wa kapangidwe ka zovala, wakhala katswiri, katswiri woyendetsa chiwongolero, ndipo ali ndi gulu labwino kwambiri. Zolemba zachilengedwe zimakhala zothandiza kwambiri komanso kapangidwe kake kaumwini, ndipo sizifuna zithunzi zokongola. Koma ife, ingotengani nthawi yathu, choyamba... Yambani ndi ntchito yabwino ~
Nthawi yotumizira: Marichi-28-2024
